πŸ’ Use a Metal Lathe to Alter the Diameter of a Lead Screw - Instructables

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A common complaint with mini lathes is that the slowest saddle feed is to high to produce a good finish, so I added a variable speed drive to cure this. The motor.


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Taig Micro Lathe Lead Screw with Split-nut, Variable DC Motor Drives
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mini lathe lead screw motor

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aktau-site.ru lever on the back of a mini-lathe, so the banjo position would be safely constrained.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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The premier source of parts and accessories for mini lathes and mini mills. Mini Lathe You control the motor speed by adjusting a potentiometer that provides the speed setting the lead screw moves the carriage toward the headstock.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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A common complaint with mini lathes is that the slowest saddle feed is to high to produce a good finish, so I added a variable speed drive to cure this. The motor.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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A servo-driven lead screw using Arduino to calculate proper spindle and well which is needed to control the motor speed while operating the lathe. the synchronous belt gear ration (in this case ), the micro steps (in.


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I'm going to put the ELS on my Warco mini lathe, I've already installed a stepper motor onto the lathe and control it via an Arduino but just for an.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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It comes with its own power supply, a #23 frame size stepper motor, connecting cable and complete instructions. An 8-pin mini-DIN cable can be used to connect​.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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It comes with its own power supply, a #23 frame size stepper motor, connecting cable and complete instructions. An 8-pin mini-DIN cable can be used to connect​.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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Use a Metal Lathe to Alter the Diameter of a Lead Screw: I'm building a Thickness Sander and I'm using Acme Lead Screws to raise and lower a table on the.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

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On a mini-lathe and I'd imagine on plenty of other, less-expensive lathes, the reduction from the spindle to the lead screw is too to the lead screw is too coarse for really fine feeds. dedicated, low RPM, high-torque motor.


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mini lathe lead screw motor

Pre-ground 6mm tools in various styles are readily available, and can be very useful for smaller work β€”especially very narrow parting tools. The first is linking into the drive train. Smear with WUL once more, and heat to red-hot for a few minutes, then quench in lukewarm water. The motor runs off some volts direct current essentially rectified mains. Of course the side effects are that a I usually buy something else as well, and b I go back to them. For finishing cuts I put a small flat parallel to the cut on the end. DC shocks are more severe than AC shocks, so it is more dangerous than the mains. Finally, the parting tool works well, but is difficult to sharpen and keep the right top rake. I find I have to use a thin alloy shim to pack up the tool to get it exactly on centre height. Faced with my first lathe, I could only twiddle for so long! I could not track down an off the shelf replacement β€” some washing machines used to use similar motors, but these seem to be obsolete. With a small item like this, it is easiest to place it where it can rapidly be poked into a water filled container using pliers, as soon as the colour gets near the tip. I use a simple rest on the grinding wheel and put on top-rake and front clearance aiming to grind right up to the corner of the bar, then take an angled skim off the end to leave a sharp point. Unfortunately the power needed for the job made the motor run hot, but the low speed limited the effectiveness of its cooling fan. In use, the tool is set at an angle, to give suitable clearances front and side. The gear cover of the CLM is held in place by two bolts. These tools cut up to a shoulder and can be used for both roughing cuts and facing at the same setting. This exercise revealed some of the differences between the various mini-lathe lookalikes! I then fitted a small brass key between wheel and shaft and have had no more problems [keep an eye on this wheel - if you get a lot of slippage it can wear badly but they are cheap enough to replace]. For full details see Mini Lathe Gear Cover Mod [again, this is a mod that every mini-lathe owner should make]. I have only made this modification to my new t-slotted slide [do this mod! Sharpness and getting the tip accurately at centre height are the critical issues, as long as there is clearance on all sides and some top rake the exact amounts are less important. It's the best one there is for any mini lathe]. A loud pop followed by a cloud of smoke announced the failure of two windings in the armature. For a fuller guide to mini lathes see my book The Mini Lathe. A milder scraping sound may mean the toothed wheel has shifted on the shaft, and the belt is rubbing on the guard. This would have to be by belt to a pulley on an intermediate shaft set where the motor is. It takes only a few minutes to drill and tap a pair of holes in the reversing gear mounting plate, fit two screws in place and cut two matching slots in the cover. I worry about this, and fancy the headstock gets a bit warm at times. The correct rating of fuse is your best protection against overloading the motor in this way; when I blew my motor, I had fitted a larger fuse. Several sources suggest replacing the headstock bearings with taper roller bearings.{/INSERTKEYS}{/PARAGRAPH} Clean up the piece with emery paper or scotchbrite pad this is so much easier if you use the WUL! Whether I have been buying an expensive gadget, a set of castings or just bits and pieces, I have yet to find a specialist supplier, large or small, who has not spent some time making sure I get what I need and avoid expensive mistakes. Not very glamorous, but effective. Though tools of this design are often recommended, it is rarely pointed out that, though meant for left hand cutting they can be serviceably used for facing without being reset. The handed roughing tools are better, as they can be sharpened by grinding the flat side of the tip, but they cannot cut into a corner. As far as I can see there are a couple of problems with this, but they could be solved. In both cases switch off and adjust and retension the belt. In theory the shank of twist drills is rather soft, but I find that this tool happily keeps its edge cutting ordinary steels and cast iron. {PARAGRAPH}{INSERTKEYS}The lathe has given me 20 years of service, and is probably one of the most modified mini-lathes on the planet. In the end, however, I have turned all my tools around and ground the blunt ends into new tools β€” thread cutting, knife and parting. It is easy to damage the motor of the CLM if it is stalled for any length of time and a packet or three of fuses are a lot cheaper than an armature rewind or a new motor. All was explained when the drive belt, which had split and was skipping a few teeth, stalling the cutter, finally gave way completely. My thoughts on some of the issues below have moved on, see my comments in square brackets. This tool is the cranked shank-end of a broken drill bit, held in a drilled-out and squashed piece of aluminium shelf support. The constant torque circuitry does a good job of keeping a steady motor speed when running slow on heavy loads, but this creates the illusion the machine can cope with jobs strictly beyond its capability, or at least that of the motor. I bought a set of hss tools with the machine, so I had to cut metal. I found myself inside a Chuck cartoon! The load on the motor for this is considerable, and ought really be reserved for lathes which have had a larger, variable speed AC motor fitted [since fitting taper roller bearings and fitting a3-phase motor with an inverter, finish is fine at 1. I filed a groove inside the damaged wheel, to match that on the motor shaft. There is no absolute reason why the lathe should be securely mounted, as long as it is in no danger of moving when in use. One interesting pieces of advice was the suggestion that I fitted an ordinary AC motor, on the grounds that the lathe was robust enough to take a much more powerful motor. At this point I ought to recount a cautionary tale! Smear it with washing up liquid WUL , then heat it red-hot and allow it to cool slowly. The set of tools supplied for use with the CLM comprises a set of small 6mm square tools and a holder, and one big tool - a hefty double-ended bit in a robust holder. Since writing the previous paragraph I have discovered another failure mode! If the lathe is used in part of the home, it will be a lot quieter sitting on its built in rubber feet, than bolted to a rigid bench. The various other suppliers of the CLM and its look-alikes were very helpful, but reluctant to sell me one, as they all had only one or two spares which they reasonably wanted to keep for their own customers. Using a vice and a large pair of pliers, or even a hammer, put a degree crank near the centre of the bar. Chamfering the bottom edge of the nut should ensure you get the last thou of full travel. Milling a shallow recess to clear the index is the first step. One solution is a d-bit style cutter held in a boring bar holder, but I chose to use the rather scruffy device shown in the photographs. Now grind away the tip to the profile shown in the drawings. Make another, threaded, cross hole for a suitable screw to hold the bit in place. It now takes only a second to fit or remove the cover. A complete loss of power without the dramatic sound effects could be the shearing of the key in the glass-filled nylon toothed wheel on the end of the motor. Buy a few packets of 1. I have never bolted down my lathe, and have never had any problems with movement or noise [I never did get around to mounting the mini lathe]. For general use I polish up the edges and round the tip off with a slipstone. This generally arrives with a chamfer on the end that is a good starting point. Continually removing and replacing these bolts is tedious, and eventually the temptation is to operate the lathe with the cover removed. There do not appear to be any points for oiling the mandrel and other bearings inside the headstock. The larger tool is the only one in the set capable of cutting into a square corner. It is important to grind under the cutting edge so that the cutter does not rub when being used in very small holes. It also highlighted the excellent service from several of the machinery suppliers advertising in ME β€” every one I contacted was helpful, despite the fact I had bought my lathe elsewhere. Make a simple holder from piece of scrap square bar that will fit the toolpost. The holders are such that the tools come to centre height when in the toolpost. The smallest ground HSS boring bars fit neatly into the holder. Secondly, the back gear has roughly a ratio, much smaller than most lathes, so a conventional set of coned pulleys would not give a very broad speed range. The spray of iron filings got higher, and I grew dirtier. With a mini-lathe we have a genuine choice. Furthermore, as long as the bench below is reasonably flat, the lathe be should retain its accuracy. This is a common size, but surprisingly, no tools of this size are to be found in the set marketed for the lathe by Clarke. The only clue I had was the handbook which suggests limiting cuts to a depth of just 10 thou 0. It can also be used for making degree chamfers, but it is rather peculiar, apparently suited to very heavy work, and one I have hardly used. Large lathes are normally rigidly mounted; either to the bench or even physically bolted to the floor. One reason long, slow jobs with heavy cuts can overheat the motor, is the reliance on a fan on the armature for cooling, which is ineffective at slow speeds. There would have to be a decidedly Heath-Robinson collection of belts and pulleys hanging off the back of the headstock, and speed selection could be a bit of a nightmare. An advance over the screw and thread arrangement on my old Marina, I suppose? Firstly, the slide itself butts up against the index. The quotes I had for rewinds were astronomical. Small lathes such as the Peatol or Unimat 4 may be free standing or mounted on a baseboard solely for convenience. Experience has shown that you can take significantly heavier cuts, easily up to 80 thou in soft metals, and 20 in mild steel. You might imagine that the limiting factors on cross-slide travel are adequate engagement of the feed nut and the dovetails. The need for careful levelling and adjustment necessitated when the lathe is bolted down is avoided. A gas blowtorch is fine for this job, but placing the piece on a small insulating tile will make this much easier. Having wound transformers in the past, I considered rewinding the motor myself, but a V DC motor has a lot of potential for disaster if wound wrongly, so I decided to seek a replacement. Treat the electrics of the CLM with extra respect. Parting tools are best ground by copying a bought one.